Periyali’s main dining area. Photo by Liz Clayman.
It’s no small feat to own a restaurant in New York City. If you’ve lasted as long as Periyali has, which is nearly 40 years now, clearly you are doing something right.
Long embraced by locals in the Flatiron District, Periyali (which means ‘seashore’ in Greek) was established in 1987 by Nicola Kotsoni and Steve Tzolis following the success of their Tuscan restaurant, Il Cantinori, and traditional French Bistro, La Gauloise. They endured a closure by the pandemic and bounced back, reopening in Jan. 2024. In addition to its transportive Mediterranean atmosphere, with soft glowing lights, white place settings, finely prepared Greek dishes and a wine list that is one of the most extensive in the city, Periyali now has added an event space that can accommodate up to 70 people, perfect for weddings and other celebrations.
Even on a hot Monday in August, locals were out celebrating birthdays, as well as family and friendships. My friend and I snagged an early reservation after work; seats filled up quickly. Immediately a basket of fresh baked bread was brought to the table, along with a bottle of the some of the best tasting ever olive oil that we thoroughly enjoyed.
We took their advice on the wine: Pieria Erateini’s Wishes 2022 Dry White Wine, a perfect complement to our meal. For appetizers, we shared the classic Saganaki, prepared with Metaxa brandy, along with a lightly battered sardine appetizer, with a spritz of lemon.
For our entrees, we feasted on (the portions are generous) Arni Youvetsi, a succulent Braised Lamb Shank with Tomato, Orzo and Warm Spices, and Solomos Exohiko, an equally tasty dish of Hidden Fjord Salmon with Spinach, Feta & Herbs Wrapped in Phyllo.
Make sure to leave space for dessert, it would be a crime not to indulge: there’s a nice selection of delectable favorites, from baklava, to walnut cake, orange semolina cake, almond cookies and more.
Periyali is currently participating in Restaurant Week, which runs through August 18.
Periyali is located at 35 West 20th Street. For more information and reservations, visit periyali.com.