Chow Down in Lower Manhattan, there is an immense range of delicious spots to frequent. According to Explorer In Chief Josh Katz, there are five restaurants where you go as soon as humanly possible.
Caravan Uyghur Cuisine
Manhattan’s only Uighur restaurant is located in the heart of Lower Manhattan. Their noodle dishes (above) strike the perfect balance between exotic spice profiles and hearty comfort food. (200 Water Street)
Temple Court
Tom Colicchio’s excellent farm-to-table, American-style restaurant is set within the beautiful atrium and cozy corners of The Beekman Hotel. (5 Beekman Street)
Tom Colicchio Photo by Philippe Reynaud
Temple Court IG
Bao Bao + Suspenders
Bao Bao makes delicious, authentic Chinese food out of an endearingly small restaurant with limited seating. Their pho is fantastic. Immediately next door you’ll find Suspenders, a beloved local watering hole that’s been open for 33 years. For a wonderful experience, take advantage of either spot’s outdoor seating and combine the two. Just ask nicely first! (106 Greenwich Street)
CUT by Wolfgang Puck
Their menu is creative, the presentation is artful, and the meals are scrumptious. While most steakhouses seem stuck in the 19th century, CUT has designed both their menu and interiors with a modern twist, tastefully balanced with a respectful nod to tradition. (99 Church Street)
Makina Cafe
Makina Cafe serves up incredible Ethiopian cuisine from their food truck in Governors Island. While I love the family-style spreads of typical Ethiopian fair, this place has perfected the personal injera plates full of delectable sides like miser (red lentils), Gomen (collard greens), and Tikel Gomen (cabbage with carrots and potatoes). This place is an unbeatable start to a delightful day. (Governors Island)
This week, we had the pleasure of visiting the brand new Bayberry Garden – the “big sister” to Providence’s Bayberry Beer Hall.
Located in Providence, Rhode Island’s innovation district at 225 Dyer Street, Bayberry Garden is a sight to see. I was welcomed warmly into the modern, yet classic New England-inspired location, complete with plant life, all of it enveloping its guests.
The restaurant is lovingly owned by husband and wife team Tom and Natalie Dennen. The name Bayberry Garden was inspired by Tom’s grandfather’s home in Maine, which was surrounded by Bayberry bushes.
Bayberry’s Growing Garden
Bayberry Garden, Providence, RI
Bayberry Garden itself is, quite literally, a garden. All of the vegetation and plant life in the restaurant is not only real but is starting small. As the restaurant grows and evolves, so will the plants within it. Three trees that face the streets of Providence are planted six feet under the cement floor of the restaurant. There’s an ivy wall at the rear of the restaurant that is now only a few inches from the ground but will climb up the wall as the restaurant ages. Hanging plants around the restaurant will overflow and turn the restaurant into more of a garden than it already is.
Bayberry Garden has an organic vibe and feel, and the wine list is a perfect jumping-off point. The selection is biodynamic, meaning there is no intervention with pesticides, and all selections are uber-organic.
Mike Seely is the executive chef and also worked under an esteemed James Beard Award winner, a high mark in the culinary universe. His dishes blew us away on a granular level.
Oysters and Breads n’ Spreads
Oysters on the half shellArtisanal bread and spreads. From left: herb pain au lait, farmhouse multigrain sourdough, semolina and cheddar sourdough, salt, and pepper butter, caramelized shallot, and fennel jam, and chive butter.
The meal began with oysters on the half shell, a New England restaurant hallmark and necessity. The selection of oysters that evening were from Chebooktook, Canada, and East Beach, Rhode Island. They were accompanied by a delicious in-house preserved lemon mignonette with homemade rice wine vinegar and a homemade hot sauce. We then received a refined take on the breadbasket with a plate of herb pain au lait, farmhouse multigrain sourdough, semolina, and cheddar sourdough, and on the side was salt and pepper butter, caramelized shallot and fennel jam, and chive butter. Unlike predictable restaurant bread and butter, it was quite the treat.
Marbled Avocado
“Marbled Avocado”
Our next course was the “Marbled Avocado”, which was served with Allen Farms pea greens, preserved lemon, and crispy rice paper. Think guac and chips, but elevated. The avocado was creamy and nutty and paired perfectly with the zesty, crispy rice paper. Additionally, it is a great option for those with gluten intolerance, like myself.
Rhode Island Striper
Rhode Island striped bass with pea chutney
The next course turned out to be my personal favorite; as it should be since I am a Rhode Island native. It was a Rhode Island striped bass with a pistachio crust, spring parsnips, and pea-chutney. The dish was warm, sweet yet savory, and oh so comforting. Additionally, the pistachio-crusted fish paired perfectly with the rounded flavor of the peas and finished out with a delightfully subtle sweet flavor. It was both exquisitely refreshing and warming.
Half Chicken with Farm Roots and Spuds
Half chicken with roots and potatoes
After the striper came the half chicken with Little City Farm roots and potatoes with morel cream and greens. The chicken was wonderfully juicy and flavorful and was married so well with the crispy spuds. They did a classic dish justice here.
Dark Chocolate Profiteroles and Rhubarb Pavlova
Dark chocolate profiterolesRhubarb pavlova
Naturally, we couldn’t leave Bayberry Garden without dessert. These dishes were undoubtedly the stars of the show. My guest, a Rhode Island restaurant industry veteran, ordered dark chocolate profiteroles with strawberries, strawberry sorbet, ricotta, and balsamic glaze. The innovative flavors were fused into the beautiful creation. My guest was left speechless, which is not an easy feat. Last but not least, my dessert of choice was a rhubarb pavlova with green strawberries, white chocolate, and lemon verbena + juniper ice cream. This was my first time having pavlova. Previously, I had only seen iterations of it on The Great British Baking Show, and it left me quite starstruck. The entirely gluten-free dish was crispy, pillow-soft, creamy, sweet, and complex. Every layer of flavor was able to shine. It was lovely.
Tea and Pâte de Fruit
Chamomile “Sunday Morning” tea and mixed berry pâte de fruit
As our night came to an end, we were served a “Sunday Morning” tea, from a list of teas that are almost presented as if they’re cocktails. They come from Amber Jackson, who founded The Black Leaf Tea + Culture Shop with the love of tea and Black culture in mind. Moreover, she started the company after recognizing the absence of space for young Black professionals in Providence. “Sunday Morning” was the perfect way to ease into the night. It featured chamomile tea, orange peel, lemongrass, and spearmint, and was served in a small glass French press, so all of the ingredients were visibly present, adding to the experience.
The night concluded with the sweetest touch, two mixed berries Pâte de Fruit, a personal favorite confection of mine. Also, they were rolled in basil sugar crystals, which kicked up the classic French sweet-Bayberry style.
I should also mention that the service at Bayberry Garden was impeccable. Our server, Danny, was very knowledgeable about the menu, beverage selections, and wine. His quirkiness was infectious, particularly when telling backstories about the decor or when highlighting a house-made ingredient. Additionally, all staff members were extremely warm and friendly, to the point that the table maintenance was done effortlessly. At Bayberry Garden, you’re treated not only as a guest but as a friend. The sentiment behind the restaurant’s conception feels rich with intention, purpose, and storytelling, just like old New England folklore.
Thank you, Bayberry Garden, for having me! I won’t be a stranger.
The announcement comes with a list of restrictions and rules intended to prevent further spread of COVID-19. Restaurants will start at 25% capacity. If the citywide infection rate stays low, restaurants can increase their indoor capacity to 50% on November 1.
But if the infection rate goes back up, restaurants may be forced to shut down again.
Still, the announcement is good news for local restaurants. For months, establishments have been pleading with the mayor and governor to release a plan for a return to operating indoors, particularly since the infection rate has remained below 1% for the past month.
The service and hospitality industry has suffered considerably due to COVID-19, and the push for indoor dining was a push for its continued survival. The pandemic has been especially tough on bars and restaurants, an industry that recently employed more than 315,000 New Yorkers but has been operating at a fraction of its usual business since the city reopened. Thousands of establishments, including some of New York’s most storied diners and watering holes, have shuttered for good or shouldered a huge financial burden since the pandemic started.
—All patrons must get their temperature checked at the door
—At least one member of each party must leave contact information for potential contact tracing if an infected person is linked to the establishment
—Service must end at midnight
—No bar service will be allowed; table service only
—Masks must be worn by diners at all times except when seated
—Tables must be 6 feet apart
—Establishments must adhere to enhanced air filtration, ventilation, and purification standards, though specific details on these standards are not yet available
It’s unclear how many bars and restaurants closed so far, but a New York Times report in August said as many as one-third of small businesses may have been lost for good. Expanded outdoor dining, which was introduced in June, is currently slated to last through October — it has been a hit with patrons, and some hope it will get extended indefinitely. Still, industry leaders have complained, the governor’s restrictions and enforcement have been too severe, causing even more financial problems.
If you’re planning to do some indoor dining, remember to wear your mask when talking to your server and tip generously. It’s going to be a long recovery.
Indoor dining is still verboten in the city, but Michele and Anisa Iuliano figured out a workaround above their restaurant Gnoccheria.
This week, the couple opened Ampia Restaurant & Rooftop (100 Broad Street) directly upstairs from their inventive gnocchi operation. Ampia serves light, rustic Italian fare with plenty of seafood, in addition to pizza and pasta, for lunch and dinner.
Roofdeck
Michele and Anisa had thought of the 4,500-square-foot rooftop concept prior to COVID-19 –
The shelter-in-place orders threw a wrench in their plans. They had prepared the greenhouse space for socially-distanced outdoor dining after Anisa saw an online ad for plastic greenhouses. That’s when inspiration struck: Why not give their diners a custom indoor dining experience on the roof? Each of the five greenhouses seats two diners, replete with a lush array of plants and flowers. (Per social-distancing guidelines, it is preferred that the dining pairs live together.)
Of course, anyone who isn’t lucky enough to snag a greenhouse can sit at one of the outdoor tables. Space is designed to accommodate 250 guests, but Ampia will be operating at 25% capacity to abide by social-distancing measures.
“I want people to come on this beautiful roof and feel safe and like they’re in their own little world so they can enjoy themselves,” Anisa told Time Out New York.
To mitigate the risk of infection, tables are placed at least six feet apart, surfaces are thoroughly and frequently sanitized and ordering is contactless. Diners are required to wear masks unless they’re sitting at their tables.
Octopus Sandwich
About
Husband and wife duo, Chef Michele Iuliano and Anisa Iuliano, the restaurateurs behind seven NYC-based Italian eateries (most notable being their popular Napoletana eatery, Gnoccheria)open Ampia Restaurant & Rooftop in the heart of the Financial District. Located at 100 Broad St. (Entrance on Bridge St.) on the third floor, Ampia Rooftop (Ampia meaning “Space” in Italian) is a sprawling 4,500 Sq. foot outdoor rooftop terrace featuring individual greenhouses for a social distance dining experience, opulent clusters of colorful flower gardens, and Italian-themed art and décor dispersed throughout.
Chef Michele Iuliano and Anisa Iuliano
Chef Michele Iuliano offers up an authentic Italian menu of lite casual fare, along with a selection of inventive seafood paninis.
Now Open Ampia Rooftop is incorporating safety and sanitizing precautions and will be open for dinner daily.
First responders in and around the Flatiron District are eating well this month.
The Flatiron/23rd Street Partnership is funding daily meal delivery orders, with the help of a GoFundMe campaign, to support neighborhood restaurants and feed essential workers. The Partnership launched the “Feed Flatiron’s First Responders” initiative on May 4 and hopes to continue it through the end of the month.
The Partnership is purchasing more than 100 meals a day-
seven days a week, from restaurants in Flatiron and NoMad—neighborhoods known for their critically acclaimed eats and culinary significance. The restaurants deliver meals to EMS workers, police officers, and firefighters. Lucky recipients include the EMS Station at Bellevue Hospital, two local FDNY Stations (Engines 3 and 14), and the NYPD 13th Precinct.
Photo courtesy of the Flatiron/23rd Street Partnership
“Through our Feed Flatiron’s First Responders program, we are expressing our deep gratitude to the first responders in our community who are putting their lives on the line every day to fight this pandemic,” Partnership Executive Director James Mettham said. “At the same time, this is a great way to support local restaurants that have contributed so much to our neighborhood’s vibrancy, who are now struggling to stay afloat.”
The Partnership committed an initial $10,000 to kick-start the program –
and is matching every donation, dollar for dollar, up to $10,000. They have raised over $6,100 via the “Feed Flatiron First Responders” GoFundMe page and purchased about 2,000 meals so far. They hope to reach $10,000 to continue the deliveries through the end of May.
“We are grateful to everyone who has generously donated so far,” Mettham added. “We encourage people to continue contributing to the campaign to show our EMS workers, firefighters, and police officers—as well as our restaurant owners and employees—that our community has their backs.”
Participating restaurants that have prepared and delivered meals
include, Mangia, Zucker’s Bagels & Smoked Fish, Hill Country Barbecue Market, Sophie’s Cuban Cuisine, Leonelli Taberna, Bourke Street Bakery, Bravo Pizza, Eataly Flatiron, Field’s Good Chicken, Honeybrains, Memo Shish Kabob, Areppas, Melt Shop, BXL Zoute, Sweetcatch Poke, Summer Salt, Om Juice Bar, Taim, Dig Inn, Mexicue, Zero Otto Nove, Little Beet, Blackbarn, Flatiron Plate, and Dos Caminos.
As I write this article, my mouth is watering, and I find myself wishing that I was sitting down for another meal at Pasta Eater, a new Southern Italian eatery in Union Square.
One of Downtown’s long-time editors Jackie Grupe, and I had the distinct pleasure of accepting an invitation for a tasting at this 6-month-old newcomer, Pasta Eater.
Pasta Eater New York, NY
We arrived around 7 PM to a lively, upbeat restaurant, with large windows looking onto the street, and warm, friendly staffers greeted us. That’s usually a clear indication that we are off to a good start. Once seated, we were introduced to Chef Luigi Cetrulo after our lovely chat, we decided to have Chef prepare his favorite dishes for us to sample.
Every dish outdid the one before, all the way to the very last bite.
A few of the dishes we enjoyed: Moscardini in Umido, Slowly cooked baby octopuses in San Marzano tomato sauce, Paccheri pasta with octopus ragù, crunchy black olives, and crumbled Amaretto biscotti, and for dessert, Cheesecake Con Nutella e Pistacchio.
Agnello Scottato Lamb chops marinated with lemon and thymeSlowly cooked baby octopuses in San Marzano tomato sauceCheesecake Con Nutella e Pistacchio
For pasta experts, the pasta at Pasta Eater is freshly made in their kitchen. There is a detectable difference from dry to fresh pasta, no matter how much you pay for packaged pasta. Serve it fresh, that’s my motto!
Pasta Giusto
The item which impressed me the most were the lamb chops. I am usually not a fan of lamb, therefore I rarely order it for fear that I will be disappointed. Chef Luigi, you have made me a lamb chop lover.
DTM: Tell us about the chef – where is he from and when did he know he wanted to be a chef?
Chef Luigi Cetrulo
PE: Luigi Cetrulo (33) was born in Foggia (Apulia) and was immersed in the pasta tradition from a very early age when on Sunday he would help his mother, Antonietta, cook the Sunday “sauce” that would accompany an all pasta lunch for the family. He soon worked as a chef for the best hotels and restaurants in Italy, Switzerland, and NYC where he moved in 2013. The Pasta Eater concept was born when he began working with Giusto Priola in 2017.
DTM: Where else have they worked in NYC?
PE: The owner, Giusto Priola (from Misilmeri, a small village near Palermo in Sicily) moved to New York from Italy more than 20 years ago. He started his career as a restaurateur with the opening of the wildly successful “Cacio e Pepe” (2004), he was the first to bring the renowned Cacio e Pepe pasta to the NYC tables. He later opened a highly acclaimed restaurant “Cacio e Vino” (2006) which became the emblem of Sicilian Cuisine in NYC. Giusto boasts 20 years of experience in the food business, which has led him to stand out as an Italian culinary pioneer.
Owner Giusto Priola
DTM: Tell us about the front of the house and who runs it, where do they hail from?
PE: The most important aspect of “the front of the house” is the fact that we have a pasta machine which makes fresh pasta every day. For the types of pasta that cannot be made with the pasta machine (i.e.orecchiette) people will notice that a pasta maker will be continuously making pasta by hand in front of the restaurant’s guests and in the restaurant’s window.
“The place was buzzing without being loud. There was very much a neighborhood feel. The food was simply prepared, highlighting the main ingredient as the star of the show—grilled octopus, tuna carpaccio, lamb chops. All delicious!” Jackie Grupe
DTM: How did they come together to create this amazing Southern Italian restaurant, and why did they choose this location?
PE: Luigi and Giusto met serendipitously in 2017 and immediately began wondering where their shared passion for food would have taken them …
DTM: Everyone seated around us appears to be regulars, and some even come in twice a week. They had nothing but remarkable things to say about the food, service, and the restaurant. Why do you think Pasta Eater has taken off? In just 3 months, it is standing room only!
PE: We believe that if the quality of the food we serve is high, like something we would serve to, say our family, our guests will leave satisfied and they will come back. We would never sacrifice the quality of our ingredients to save a few cents. We only serve the best and we do it with love. As if our dishes were made for a family member and that’s why our guests come back. This concept is also reflected in the way our staff behaves. We want all the people who visit our restaurant to feel at home – 360 degrees. They have to taste it in the food and feel it in the way they are treated. This is the secret to our “success”.
DTM: We’ve heard that other businesses before Pasta Eater never made it in that location, does this concern you?
Pasta Giusto
PE: Not at all. We are on a very busy street in the heart of Union Square’s district. There is no reason to be concerned.
We believe in what we do and we hope people who don’t know us will find us randomly or come to us through word of mouth. The important part is that they come back once they have tried us.
DTM: How did you come up with the unusual name, Pasta Eater?
Pasta GiustoPacchero Al Ragú Di Polpo
PE: The name “Pasta Eater” was invented by Giusto Priola, who’s extremely grateful to America for what it did for him. “Pasta” is an Italian word everyone in the world knows. “Eater” is an English word, easy to remember. The name is understandable by everyone: PASTA EATER. Apart from being easy to remember it puts the person eating in the spotlight and not the restaurant itself, which is very different from all other restaurants’ names.
Fresh Pasta – Pasta Eater
Andiamo a Pasta Eater, remember this name, you too will find yourself craving a meal at this superb Southern Italian eatery. Pasta Eater is here to stay, run don’t walk to book reservations, and tell them Downtown Magazine sent you! (Pasta Eater, 9 East 17th Street, 212.627.5910)
