After quietly reopening this summer, The Paris Café is reintegrating into the Seaport downtown scene with a new, reimagined identity by Opus Hospitality. This project marks the hospitality group’s debut with the historic brasserie, which has been completely transformed in its first full renovation, blending classic French charm with a fresh, modern style.

The Paris Café first opened its doors in 1873 and for years has been one of the oldest institutions in New York City, where sailors, artists, and wanderers would come together. Today, it reclaims its place in the cultural fabric of Manhattan through an imaginative transformation rooted in romance, preservation, and a touch of theatricality.

 

Designed by Legeard Studio in partnership with Opus Hospitality, the interior combines elements of a refined French brasserie with a playful spirit. There are grand plaster details, hand-laid fan mosaic tiles, and pewter-topped counters, alongside plush velvets, aged mirrors, and rich texture. The result is a space that feels both glamorous and comfortable, with a new live jazz stage anchoring the back room in rhythm and atmosphere.

The space feels warm and elegant, with soft lighting, colorful flowers, and hints of brass that glow at night. In the back, the stage brings the room to life with live jazz, guest musicians, and curated performances, turning dinner into an experience that feels distinctly New York.

As the evening goes on, the restaurant effortlessly shifts into its nightlife persona, The Paris Café After Dark. The back room transforms into a Parisian-style lounge where the stage becomes the heartbeat of the space, hosting live jazz, guest musicians, and comedians three nights a week. Guests linger over martinis, fine wines, and late-night bites while relaxing into plush seating surrounded by soft lighting and rich Art Deco touches. It’s sophisticated but comfortable, the kind of space that invites you to stay long after dinner ends.

 

 

In the Kitchen with Chef Benjamin Wolff

At the helm of The Paris Café’s kitchen is Chef Benjamin Wolff, a Culinary Institute of America graduate who has spent the past decade cooking in New York City. As a kid, Wolff helped his mom in the kitchen, and realized his calling. His passion led him to pursue a formal culinary education that was highlighted by an externship at the Omni Hotel in New Orleans, where he became immersed in the city’s popular culinary traditions.

Over his 13-year career, Wolff has worked across some of New York’s most respected kitchens, including Atoboy, Racines NY, Agi’s Counter, and Colicchio & Sons. His experience extends beyond the kitchen line. He has also worked as a fishmonger at Greenpoint Fish & Lobster and even ran his own bread business out of his apartment. This shaped his respect for seasonality, sourcing, and technique, giving him a well-rounded understanding of how every element comes together to create a great meal.

 

 

Joining The Paris Café in May ahead of its July reopening, Wolff designed the entire menu himself, blending approachable brasserie favorites with a chef’s creative curiosity. When Grace A. Capobianco sat down with him for an interview, Wolff shared the story behind one of the menu’s most unexpected dishes, the Chou Au Barbecue. “I was up thinking about what would pair well with some cabbage, and I made a barbecue sauce in my head,” he said with a laugh. “Then I put it on the plate.” The result is a flavorful, smoky cabbage dish inspired by one of his early mentors, who taught him to celebrate vegetables with the same care as protein.

When it comes to the menu’s centerpiece, Steak Frites Au Poivre, Wolff worked side by side with owner Julien Legeard for weeks to perfect the sauce. “He was very critical until one day he said, ‘This is it,’ and he was right,” Wolff said. “Every time someone comes in, they tell us that’s their favorite dish.”

Wolff credits his background in both savory and pastry work for shaping his style. “Food isn’t just about what’s cooked on the stove,” he explained. “It’s about pastry, coffee, wine, and all the details that complete the experience.” That holistic mindset carries through to the restaurant’s dessert program, led by Pastry Chef Emma Scanlon, who has worked in Michelin-starred kitchens and now creates standouts like La Révolution and a decadent chocolate mousse with salted chantilly and chocolate crumble.

Supporting Wolff is Sous Chef Joseph Parker, a longtime friend and collaborator. “He’s the backbone of the restaurant,” Wolff said. “We met ten years ago on the subway, talking about line cooking, and now we’re running a kitchen together.”

Wolff’s inspiration often comes from travel. Having visited more than 20 countries, he always prioritizes learning about each region’s cuisine and culture. His cooking philosophy combines classic French brasserie techniques with thoughtful sourcing and constant refinement, creating food that feels both familiar and fresh.

For sourcing, the team works with boutique suppliers such as Natura and Lancaster Farms, and imports their snails from Paris Gourmet. “We try to use the best seasonal ingredients we can find,” Wolff said. “Supporting local farms and working with people we know makes all the difference.”

Drawn to The Paris Café for its storied history and iconic location, Wolff saw the reopening as a chance to help reimagine a New York landmark for a new generation of diners. Working with the design team, he brought a new perspective to the endeavor, fusing the craft of haute cuisine with the café’s showroom and restored space. His goal was simple: to create an experience that feels like a second home, where guests can truly sense the care and creativity behind every dish.

When asked what he hopes for The Paris Café’s future, his answer stayed true to that vision. “I just want to see this restaurant full every night,” he said. “I want it to work. I want it to be one of the top restaurants in the city.”

A Mouth-Watering Tasting

In an unforgettable dinner experience filled with savory dishes and warm conversation, we treated our taste buds and filled our bellies with a meal that is not one to be forgotten anytime soon. The atmosphere, the service, and the company all came together perfectly, setting the tone for a night that felt both relaxed and special.

Our waiter, Lucas, who’s originally from Champagne, France, helped us pick out a few dishes to start with. We began with a light, chilled Orange Lillet cocktail before moving to the Raw Bar and starters, including Foie Gras Terrine, Escargot, and French Onion Soup. Lucas told us that nothing says “French” quite like Escargot and onion soup, and he wasn’t wrong.

The Foie Gras Terrine was house-made and served with grilled baguette and a seasonal jam. It was smooth, rich, and perfectly balanced with just the right mix of salty and sweet.

The Escargot, made with Burgundy snails baked in green garlic and parsley butter, was tender and flavorful. Escargot can easily turn rubbery if it’s not cooked correctly, and this was not the case here, as the dish was perfect. Lucas even offered to show us how to properly fork the snail from the shell if we didn’t know how to.

 

The French Onion Soup came out piping hot with a deep, rich beef broth, caramelized onions, and a generous layer of melted comté cheese on top. It had that cozy, savory flavor that feels like a warm hug in a bowl.

One of the nightly specials from Chef Ben Wolff was a bowl of clams cooked in garlic and butter. When we asked about it, he explained that he and his sous chef, Joseph Parker, have a system where they create new specials every week, with Joseph in charge of coming up with ideas. That night, Chef Ben told us, “I had a little extra clams left over from the weekend, so I said, Why not just go simple bistro, make it taste really good?” We could have stopped eating there and been completely happy, but of course, there was more to come.

 

Next up was the Steak Frites Au Poivre, featuring filet mignon cooked medium rare. The steak was tender, juicy, and perfectly pink inside, paired with a rich peppercorn sauce that tied everything together. Every bite was full of flavor and cooked with the kind of precision that only comes from experience.

 

For a vegetarian option, we tried the Chou Au Barbecue, a charred cabbage with almonds, dried cherries, smoked paprika, and garlic confit. It had the perfect crunch and a smoky, sweet flavor that made it feel hearty and healthy. It was the dish that surprised me in the best way, and it ended up being one of my favorites of the night. I even had the leftovers the next day, and it was still just as good.

 

For dessert, we went with Chef Wolff’s recommendations: the Hazelnut Éclair, Mousse au Chocolat, and Vanilla Bean Crème Brûlée.

 

The éclair with salted caramel and topped with candied hazelnuts was light and fluffy with the blend of salty and sweet.

 

As a chocolate lover, I had high expectations for the mousse. It was layered with chocolate shortbread and crème chantilly. The chocolate was rich in flavor, but paired with the crème, it was the perfect balance.

The crème brûlée was smooth and creamy, served with a crisp sugar top, a petit palmier, and fresh strawberries. I am usually not a crème brûlée fan, but this one completely changed my mind.

Overall, everything we tried was impressive and delicious. If I could, I would come back every week to try everything on the menu and then come back to my favorites.

My top picks and recommendations from the night were the Escargot, the Filet Mignon Steak Frites, and the Chocolate Mousse. The Paris Café is definitely a spot to keep on your list, whether it is for a date night, a celebration, or just a night out when you want something special. pariscafenyc.com